We are pleased to offer this redesign of the de Havilland Beaver remote control electric kit. This model is a floater designed for the builder who loves easy construction and relaxing flying. The 57" wingspan plane with 468 square inches is easy to transport with the removable wing. The covered plane weighs in at 25 ounces before adding the tires, radio gear, batteries and motor. Modifications of this classic plane, made by individual builders, include conversion to gas power, or the addition of skis and floats. A simple 3 channel model to build and fly with rudder, elevator and throttle controls. Designed by Steve Gray for the 05 Cobalt motor. 1:10 scale.
This R/C electric kit includes a full-size rolled plan step-by-step instructions in color, laser cut balsa and aircraft plywood parts, hand-picked strip balsa, basswood, control horns, hinges, screws, preformed landing gear wire, and clear plastic. You will need an electric motor, radio control, cells, wheels, propeller, push rods, and covering material.
Includes a hobby knife, 5 blades, straight point tweezers, 5.5" x 9" Self Healing Cutting Mat, Jet Instant glue, Jet Super glue, Jet Tips, glue stick, canopy glue/tacky glue, MagnaBoard XL™ set, Minus Magnets 20 pack, and Rubber Powered Model Airplanes book. Save 20% off individually priced items.item B329 Price: $79.95
Excludes the book on rubber power and the glue stick. Includes a hobby knife, 5 blades, straight point tweezers, 5.5" x 9" Self Healing Cutting Mat, Jet Instant glue, Jet Super glue, Jet Tips, canopy glue/tacky glue, MagnaBoard XL™ set, and Minus Magnets 20 pack. Save 20% off individually priced items.item B332 Price: $66.95
Includes Sanding Stick with 120, 240, 320, 400, and 600 grit belts, Pull Saw Blade, K5 Heavy Duty Knife with beveled blade, Narrow Keyhole Saw Blades 5 pack, Curved Tip Tweezers, 1/16" Ball Tip Burnisher, Jewelers Needle Point Awl, Steel Ruler 6" x 1" with drill gauge, 15 piece drill set (1.05mm - 2mm). Save 15% off individually priced items.item B330 Price: $45.99
Includes a 10:1 winder, moldable nose weight, FAI SuperSport rubber 32 feet each 3/32", 1/8", and 3/16" and 32 feet EBM 1/16" rubber. Save 20% off individually priced items.item B331 Price: $34.95
Built by Gene Turk, this Beaver is powered by a 600 brushed motor with a gear box.
"Here is my Beaver, covered using MonoKote white and blue, with a dark blue pinstripe. I had it flying for two years now using a Magnetic Mayhem truck motor, geared 2.5:1, turning an APC-E 14x10 Prop on 10x1950 NiMh cells. This provided a great amount of thrust as I tow a 8 foot long banner at our club fun flies with it. I mounted a servo release on the bottom of the plane so I can release the banner prior to landing. The above setup was only about 280 Watts, and flew the plane extremely well. Just this weekend I updated the model with a new brushless Outrunner from E-Flite. It is a Power 25 and will swing a 12 x 6 prop on a 3S lipo. I'll have to test props to find the right combination for towing the banner, but it sounds like this setup will be extremely powerful for my needs. Here's a few photos of my setup. I'd love to build another one in the near future with ailerons and flaps." - Robert Schaffer
"I built the EasyBuilt Beaver laser cut kit a couple of years ago and have enjoyed flying with wheels, but since we head up every summer for a week at a lake with the extended family (Sparrow Lake just north of Orillia, Ontario, Canada), I decided to get in touch with Ralph Smith and he supplied a set of beautifully made 27" floats. I built some struts (aluminum airfoil tubing reinforced with internal goldenrod and epoxy) that fit the existing landing gear, and attached a simple pull-pull water rudder to the rudder servo. They look and perform beautifully - lots of fun flying off the lake and easy takeoff and landing (only a couple of nose-overs so far, with no un-repairable damage). Brilliant silhouette especially early morning and late evening - you'd think it was full scale! I might retrofit ailerons which would help especially on takeoff (since it tends to pivot slightly towards the float with the rudder)." - Patrick Surry
"Hi Dave and Ann, It has taken me quite a while but here it is. It will need to be trimmed out before it s first flight by an expert I know. I have added a pair of ailerons with a small servo for each 1 in the wing. The undercarriage fairings are of 1.5mm ply, not balsa. Tail wheel connected to rudder. My greatest problem has been fixing the right amount of wing wash to each wing tip i.e. trailing edge wing tip being twisted upwards. It seems to have taken me a while to get the technique and geometry right. Power supply is one 4 cell lipo battery. Motor is a Scorpion 780 watt, 45 amp variety. Being somewhat inexperienced as a pilot I taxied it around the field today and I think I have sufficient power up front. Will be waiting for a fine Sunday to have it flown. I have enjoyed building it, slowly and would do so again. Found the instructions informative and easy to follow." - Jim Bourke
"Attached are the pictures of my Beaver completed. Note the NC Tarheels theme! I modified the front windshield to make it more to scale but otherwise stuck to the plan with a few reinforcements and esthetic changes such as the engine appearance. It weighs 40 ounces ready to fly. This is my first build in over 25 years and I thoroughly enjoyed it! When you get some more kits in I want to build another with flaps and floats." - Dr. Bob Eldridge
"Greetings Dave and Ann, Have been working on the Beaver model and decided I wanted a removable nose to be able to get at the motor electric or glo. The model has a natural taper to the nose and the side of this ice cream bucket with it's natural taper will just slide right on. It's about 1/32" thick and it's weight is next to nothing, before I started to trim it was 34 grams. Once it slides on it will go nowhere due to the taper. Various ways to put on the nose block maybe just a couple of tiny screws or bolts through the block into the fake motor C1. Have gone thru five kinds of glue so far that will not stick the block to that plastic. To strengthen the distance between C1 and C2 would be up to the individual. For anyone with plans for a Glo, the top or side could be slotted and it will still just slide off." - Robert Middleton